In a small mixing bowl, combine the warm ¼ cup warm water around 110°F, 2 ¼ tsp active dry yeast one standard packet, and 1 tsp 1 tsp granulated sugar to activate the yeast. Stir gently and let sit for 5–10 minutes until foamy and fragrant. If it doesn't foam, your 2 ¼ tsp active dry yeast one standard packet may be old — start again with fresh active dry yeast one standard packet.

In the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with the dough hook, whisk together the 4 cups all-purpose flour plus extra for dusting, 1 tsp granulated sugar to activate the yeast, 1 ½ tsp ground cinnamon, ½ tsp ground nutmeg freshly grated preferred, ¼ tsp ground allspice, 1 tsp fine salt, and 1 tbsp orange zest from about 1 large orange. Make a well in the centre.

Add the foamy 2 ¼ tsp active dry yeast one standard packet mixture, warm ¾ cup whole milk, and 2 eggs into the well. Mix on low speed until a shaggy dough forms, then increase to medium and knead for 5 minutes.

With the mixer running on medium-low, add the softened unsalted butter one cube at a time, waiting for each piece to incorporate before adding the next. Once all unsalted butter is in, increase to medium and knead for a further 5–6 minutes until the dough is smooth, elastic, and slightly tacky but not sticky.

Add the 1 cup currants or raisins/sultanas and mix on low for 1 minute until evenly distributed. If the dough seems too sticky, add 4 cups all-purpose flour plus extra for dusting one tablespoon at a time.

Shape the dough into a ball and place in a lightly oiled large mixing bowl. Cover with a clean kitchen towel or plastic wrap and let rise in a warm spot for 1 to 1.5 hours, or until doubled in size.

Grease a 9×13-inch baking dish. Punch down the risen dough and turn it out onto a lightly floured surface. Divide into 12 equal pieces (about 85–90g each). Shape each piece into a smooth, tight ball by cupping your hand over the dough and rolling it in small circles against the work surface. Place in the prepared dish in a 3×4 grid, leaving a little space between each.

Cover the dish loosely with a kitchen towel and let the buns rise again for 45–60 minutes until puffed and just touching each other. Meanwhile, preheat the oven to 375°F.

While the buns are on their second rise, make the cross paste. In a small mixing bowl, mix the 4 cups all-purpose flour plus extra for dusting and ¼ cup warm water around 110°F together until a smooth, thick paste forms — it should be just pipeable. Transfer to a piping bag (or a Ziploc bag with a small corner snipped off).

Once the buns have finished their second rise, pipe a continuous line of cross paste along each row of buns, then repeat in the perpendicular direction to form crosses on each bun.

Bake the buns in the preheated oven for 20–22 minutes, until deep golden brown on top and the buns sound hollow when tapped on the base. Do not underbake — a pale bun will be doughy inside.

While the buns bake, make the glaze. Combine the 3 tbsp apricot jam and ¼ cup warm water around 110°F in a small saucepan over low heat, stirring until melted and smooth. Strain out any large pieces of fruit if desired.

As soon as the buns come out of the oven, brush them generously with the warm 3 tbsp apricot jam glaze. This gives them their beautiful, sticky shine. Let cool on a wire rack for at least 10 minutes before serving.