Rinse stalks under cold running water and scrub the ridges clean. Trim the base and any discolored ends. Slice on a bias or into uniform pieces for even cooking — thin slices for fast sautés, half-inch pieces for longer covered cooking. Use inner stalks if working with conventional celery; they are less fibrous. Have all aromatics prepped before the pan goes on.

Set a large skillet over medium heat for softer results or medium-high for a quicker, crunchier sauté. Add butter or oil and heat until shimmering or foamy before adding celery. Do not crowd the pan or the celery will steam instead of sauté. Add celery to the hot fat. If cooking with onion, add it first and cook about 5 minutes until translucent, then add celery. Add garlic or scallions after the celery has cooked 1 minute, then cook 30 seconds more. Stir occasionally to allow some color to develop. For tender-crisp celery, cook 2 to 3 minutes over medium-high heat. For softer celery, cook 5 to 10 minutes over medium heat. To go fully tender, add a splash of water, cover, and cook an additional 5 minutes. Total time is roughly 6 to 10 minutes depending on thickness and desired texture.

Celery is done when softened but still slightly resistant when pressed — tender-crisp. For fully soft, cook until a fork slides through easily. Color will shift from bright green to olive-green; that is normal, not overcooking. Season with salt and pepper near the end. Transfer to a plate immediately after cooking — residual heat in the pan will keep softening it. Avoid starting with a cold pan, overcrowding the skillet, or adding garlic too early or it will burn.